Savoring Silence in the Mountains
In the lush, mist-covered valleys of South Korea’s national parks, a culinary revolution is occurring—one that emphasizes stillness over spice and mindfulness over meat.Baru Gongyang, the traditional way of eating in Korean Buddhist temples, is more than a meal; it is a spiritual practice. For the traveler seeking a deeper connection with their surroundings, a temple stay offers an opportunity to deconstruct their relationship with food and the environment.
The Philosophy of the Five Pungent Herbs
At the heart of temple food is the absence of five specific ingredients known asO-sin-chae. These are believed to hinder spiritual practice by overstimulating the senses and the ego. Understanding this exclusion is key to appreciating the subtle, earthy flavors of the monastic kitchen.
| Ingredient | Believed Spiritual Effect |
|---|---|
| Garlic | Increases anger and libido |
| Green Onions | Disturbs emotional balance |
| Leeks | Cloud the mind during meditation |
| Chives | Stimulate physical aggression |
| Wild Garlic | Interrupts the flow of 'Qi' |
The Ritual of Baru Gongyang
Participating in a formal temple meal is a lesson in extreme mindfulness. Travelers are given a set of four wooden bowls (Baru). The ritual follows a strict etiquette designed to minimize waste and maximize gratitude. Every grain of rice is accounted for, and at the end of the meal, a single piece of yellow pickled radish is used to clean the bowls, which is then eaten before the cleaning water is drunk. This ensures that no trace of the meal is wasted, reflecting a deep respect for the labor and natural resources involved.
Mindful Eating Practices:
- Gong-yang-ge:Chanting before the meal to reflect on the origins of the food.
- Noble Silence:Eating in total silence to focus on the textures and flavors.
- Equality:Everyone, from the head monk to the visiting traveler, eats the same food from the same types of bowls.
Fermentation: The Taste of Time
Because Korean temple food eschews modern additives, it relies heavily on the art of fermentation. In the temple courtyards, rows ofOnggi(clay jars) containDoenjang(soybean paste) andGanjang(soy sauce) that have aged for years, sometimes decades. This slow transformation of simple soybeans into complex, umami-rich seasonings is the ultimate expression of slow travel. To taste a soy sauce that has aged for twenty years is to taste the history of the temple itself.
"Food is not just fuel; it is the medicine that allows us to practice the path of enlightenment. When we eat mindfully, we eat the entire universe." — Venerable Jeong Kwan
Opening the Door to Spiritual Gastronomy
By stepping away from the bustling street food markets of Seoul and into the quiet kitchens of temples like Baekyangsa or Mihwangsa, travelers experience a profound shift in perspective. The authentic adventure here is internal—a rediscovery of the joy found in a single, perfectly seasoned mountain herb. It is a reminder that the most profound travel experiences often happen in the quietest moments.
